Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
